The 82/Mont Blanc/Aiguilles du Diable — Pointe Carmen
51 / 82Grandes Jorasses — Pointe CrozMönch
The peak · FR · Mont Blanc Alps

Aiguilles du Diable — Pointe Carmen

4,109 m

Named after Carmen, the heroine of Bizet's 1875 opera — one of several capricious 'mistresses-and-devils' names attached to the five Aiguilles du Diable by Chamonix guides in the late 19th century, in keeping with the 'devil's needles' theme.

Card
Coordinates45.8583° N · 6.8912° E
UIAA rank№ 51 / 82
CountriesFrance
Normal gradeTD · très difficile
First ascent1923 · Jacques de Lépiney, Henry Bregeault & Paul Chevalier
Typical seasonJuly to August
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Photo of Aiguilles du Diable — Pointe Carmen
Photo: Thomas Serra · CC BY-SA 3.0

Second-highest of the Aiguilles du Diable, on the SE ridge of Mont Blanc du Tacul; the first of the needles to be climbed.

History

One of the five Aiguilles du Diable on the south ridge of Mont Blanc du Tacul. Climbed in the early 1920s during the systematic campaign of the Chamonix guide Armand Charlet, who with various partners completed first ascents of all five needles and in 1928, with Camille Devouassoux and Bradford Washburn, made the first integral traverse — Corne du Diable → Pointe Chaubert → Pointe Médiane → Pointe Carmen → L'Isolée → Mont Blanc du Tacul — which remains one of the finest granite traverses in the western Alps.

Location

Summit · huts that serve as bases for routes on this peak

Major routes
Aiguilles du Diable traverse
D · difficileTopo ↗
Vertical / summit day1,000 m gain · 9h
Second-highest point on the Diable traverse, climbed by a wide hand crack (IV) leading to two small twin summits. Reached on the standard E→W traverse between Pointe Médiane and L'Isolée.
Huts on this route
Nearby huts
Rifugio TorinoCAI · year-round3,375 m