The 82/Bernese/Finsteraarhorn
23 / 82LenzspitzeMont Blanc du Tacul
The peak · CH · Bernese Alps

Finsteraarhorn

4,274 m

'Dark Aar horn' — finster means 'dark' in German, and Aar is the river (the Aare) whose two great glacial branches (Unteraar and Finsteraar) flow from the peak's flanks. The Finsteraar (literally 'dark Aar') is the more sombre, shaded of the two.

Card
Coordinates46.5375° N · 8.1264° E
UIAA rank№ 23 / 82
CountriesSwitzerland
Normal gradePD · peu difficile
First ascent1829 · Jakob Leuthold & Johann Währen (guides of the Hugi expedition)
Typical seasonJuly to September
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Photo of Finsteraarhorn
Photo: Carsten Steger · CC BY-SA 4.0

Highest peak of the Bernese Alps.

History

The highest peak of the Bernese Alps has a tangled first-ascent history. A party led by the Aargau naturalist Rudolf Meyer claimed the summit in 1812, but their account is confused enough that the Swiss Alpine Club rejected the claim in the 19th century. The credited first ascent is therefore 10 August 1829, when Jakob Leuthold and Johann Währen — guides on Franz Joseph Hugi's scientific expedition — left their employer at a foresummit and continued to the top on their own.

Location

Summit · huts that serve as bases for routes on this peak

Major routes
NW ridge (Normal route from Finsteraarhornhütte)
PD · peu difficileTopo ↗
Vertical / summit day1,224 m gain · 6h
The standard ascent. A long glacier approach reaches the Finsteraarhornhütte; summit day climbs the upper Finsteraar glacier to the Hugisattel and then up the rocky NW ridge (II) to the top. Often combined into a multi-day Bernese ski tour or hut traverse.
Sections
Grimsel / OberaarjochFinsteraarhornhütte (3048 m)+700 m6h
FinsteraarhornhütteHugisattel (4088 m)+1,040 m4h
HugisattelSummit (4274 m)+186 m1h 30m
Huts on this route
Nearby huts
FinsteraarhornhütteSAC · late June to early October3,048 mAarbiwakSAC · unstaffed (year-round access)2,731 m