The peak · IT · Graian Alps

Gran Paradiso

4,061 m

Italian for 'great paradise' — descriptive, but late: the name is first recorded in the 18th century and replaced the older local term la Gran Punta ('the great peak'). The peak's flanks were renowned for the royal hunting reserve below, and the modern name probably reflects 19th-century romantic-Alpine sensibility rather than any older tradition.

Card
Coordinates45.5175° N · 7.2681° E
UIAA rank№ 63 / 82
CountriesItaly
Normal gradeF · facile
First ascent1860 · John Jeremy Cowell, William Dundas, Michel Payot & Jean Tairraz
Typical seasonMay to September
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Photo of Gran Paradiso
Photo: Unknown · CC BY-SA 3.0

The only UIAA 4000m peak in the Graian Alps and the highest summit lying entirely within Italy.

History

The only 4000er entirely within Italy was first climbed on 4 September 1860 by an English party with Chamonix guides — a comparatively late first ascent explained by the mountain's protected status as a royal hunting reserve. King Victor Emmanuel II had reserved the surrounding valleys for ibex hunting since 1856; that reserve became Italy's first national park in 1922 and is the reason the ibex survives in the Alps at all. The voie normale from the Vittorio Emanuele hut is the easiest of any 4000er after the Breithorn.

Location

Summit · huts that serve as bases for routes on this peak

Major routes
Normal route via Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele II
F · facileTopo ↗
Vertical / summit day2,055 m gain · 5h
The easiest 4000er ascent in the Alps. From Pont in the Valsavarenche, the approach climbs to the Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele II. Summit day is an easy glacier walk up the Ghiacciaio del Gran Paradiso to the Schiena d'Asino; the final 20 m are a short scramble (II) past the Madonna statue to the summit.
Sections
Pont (1960 m)Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele II (2732 m)+772 m2h 30m
Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele IISchiena d'Asino (4000 m)+1,268 m4h
Schiena d'AsinoSummit (4061 m)+61 m30m
Huts on this route
Nearby huts
Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele IICAI · late June to mid-September2,735 mRifugio Federico ChabodCAI · late June to mid-September2,750 m