The 82/Mont Blanc/Grandes Jorasses — Pointe Walker
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The peak · FR/IT · Mont Blanc Alps

Grandes Jorasses — Pointe Walker

4,208 m

Named after Horace Walker (1838–1908), the English alpinist who reached this highest summit of the Grandes Jorasses on 30 June 1868 with Melchior Anderegg. The collective name 'Jorasses' derives from the Aosta-side Franco-Provençal joràsse, a regional word for a wooded mountainside (compare French jorat).

Card
Coordinates45.8702° N · 6.9853° E
UIAA rank№ 32 / 82
CountriesFrance · Italy
Normal gradeAD · assez difficile
First ascent1868 · Horace Walker, Melchior Anderegg, Johann Jaun, Julien Grange
Typical seasonJuly to August
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Photo of Grandes Jorasses — Pointe Walker
Photo: No machine-readable author provided. RobinL~commonswiki assumed (based on copyright claims). · CC BY 2.5

Highest summit of the Grandes Jorasses and one of the great north walls of the Alps; the normal route climbs the south flank from the Italian side.

History

Horace Walker, with the great Oberland guide Melchior Anderegg, reached the highest point of the Grandes Jorasses on 30 June 1868. The mountain's true fame, though, comes from its north face — a 1200-metre granite wall above the Leschaux glacier. The central Croz Spur was climbed in 1935 by Rudolf Peters and Martin Meier, and the Walker Spur, the last of the three classic 'last great problems of the Alps' (with the Eigerwand and the Matterhorn north face), was climbed on 4–6 August 1938 by Riccardo Cassin, Luigi Esposito and Ugo Tizzoni. Cassin had never seen the face before he arrived in Chamonix.

Location

Summit · huts that serve as bases for routes on this peak

Major routes
S face from Refuge Boccalatte (Normal route)
Vertical / summit day2,600 m gain · 6h
The standard ascent from Italy. From Planpincieux in the Val Ferret a cabled path climbs steeply to the Refuge Boccalatte (2803 m); summit day climbs the rock-and-glacier south side over the Rocher du Reposoir, crosses the Whymper Couloir to the Rochers Whymper, then ascends the Grandes Jorasses glacier and a final rocky scramble (II–III) to the highest summit. Long and committing.
Sections
Planpincieux (1600 m)Refuge Boccalatte (2803 m)+1,203 m4h
Refuge BoccalatteSummit (4208 m)+1,405 m6h
Huts on this route
Col des Hirondelles traverse (from Boccalatte over the SE arête)
AD · assez difficile
Vertical / summit day2,700 m gain · 8h
Variant linking the SE ridge over the Pointes (Marguerite, Hélène, Croz, Whymper) to Pointe Walker — a long alpine traverse usually done in good conditions for the connoisseur. Sustained mixed terrain and corniced ridges.
Huts on this route
Featured in tours
Rochefort–Jorasses Traverse2-3 daysD
Nearby huts
Refuge du CouvercleCAF · mid-June to mid-September2,687 mRefuge BoccalatteCAI · mid-June to mid-September2,803 mRefuge de LeschauxCAF · mid-June to mid-September2,431 mRifugio TorinoCAI · year-round3,375 mRifugio Boccalatte-PioltiCAI · mid-June to mid-September2,803 mBivacco CanzioCAI · unstaffed (year-round access)3,818 mBivacco GervasuttiCAI · unstaffed (year-round access)2,835 m