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The peak · FR/IT · Mont Blanc Alps

Mont Blanc

4,810 m

French for 'white mountain' — descriptive. The name is first recorded in 1581 on a map by the Genevan cartographer Étienne de Chevallet; before that the peak was usually known to locals as la Montagne Maudite ('the cursed mountain'), a name now attached to the neighbouring Mont Maudit.

Card
Coordinates45.8326° N · 6.8652° E
UIAA rank№ 01 / 82
CountriesFrance · Italy
Normal gradePD · peu difficile
First ascent1786 · Jacques Balmat & Michel-Gabriel Paccard
Typical seasonJuly to September
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Photo of Mont Blanc
Photo: Hseugut · CC BY-SA 4.0

Highest peak in the Alps and in Western Europe.

History

The siege of Mont Blanc was opened in 1760 when the Geneva naturalist Horace-Bénédict de Saussure, then twenty years old, walked up to Chamonix and offered a reward to anyone who could find a way to the summit. The prize stood for twenty-six years. On 8 August 1786 the Chamonix doctor Michel-Gabriel Paccard and the crystal-hunter Jacques Balmat reached the top by the Grands Mulets and the Dôme du Goûter, climbing through the night and topping out in the late afternoon. Saussure himself, escorted by Balmat and eighteen porters, followed in August 1787 and spent four hours on the summit taking barometric and physiological measurements — a campaign of high-altitude science that is usually taken as the founding moment of alpinism. Marie Paradis, a Chamonix maid, became the first woman on top in 1808; Henriette d'Angeville, who climbed in 1838 with a near-military expedition of guides, was the first to do so on her own initiative.

Location

Summit · huts that serve as bases for routes on this peak

Major routes
Voie des Cristalliers (Goûter / Normal route)
PD · peu difficileTopo ↗
Vertical / summit day3,700 m gain · 6h
The most-climbed route on Mont Blanc. From Les Houches a tram (Tramway du Mont-Blanc) reaches Nid d'Aigle; from there a long, exposed walk up to the Goûter hut crosses the notorious Grand Couloir stone-fall zone. Summit day is a sustained snow plod over the Dôme du Goûter, past the Vallot shelter and up the Bosses ridge.
Sections
Nid d'Aigle (2372 m)Tête Rousse hut (3167 m)+800 m3h
Tête Rousse hutRefuge du Goûter (3835 m)+670 m3h
Refuge du GoûterSummit (4810 m)+975 m6h
Huts on this route
Trois Monts (Cosmiques / Tacul–Maudit route)
Vertical / summit day1,200 m gain · 8h
From the Aiguille du Midi cable-car station, traverse three summits: Mont Blanc du Tacul, Mont Maudit, then Mont Blanc itself. Shorter in vertical than the Goûter but more sustained, with serac hazard on the Tacul face and the steep Col du Mont Maudit step.
Sections
Aiguille du Midi (3777 m)Refuge des Cosmiques (3613 m)164 m30m
Refuge des CosmiquesSummit (4810 m)+1,200 m8h
Huts on this route
Featured in tours
Peuterey Integral3-4 daysTDMiage–Bionnassay–Mont Blanc Traverse3-4 daysADMont Blanc Trois Monts1-2 daysPD+
Nearby huts
Refuge de Tête RousseCAF · mid-June to mid-September3,167 mRefuge du GoûterCAF · mid-June to mid-September3,835 mRefuge des CosmiquesCAF · year-round3,613 mRefuge de Tête RousseCAF · mid-June to mid-September3,167 mRifugio MonzinoCAI · mid-June to mid-September2,590 mRifugio TorinoCAI · year-round3,375 mRefuge des Grands MuletsCAF · mid-March to mid-May (ski season) + summer service3,051 mRefuge VallotCAF · unstaffed (year-round emergency shelter)4,362 mBivacco Piero CraveriCAI · unstaffed (year-round access)3,490 m