The peak · IT · Monte Rosa Alps

Punta Giordani

4,046 m

Italian, named after Pietro Giordani (1755–1817), the Alagna doctor who made the first ascent of any 4000-metre Monte Rosa point in 1801 — a feat unknown to the wider European alpine community until the Club Alpino Italiano reconstructed the record in the 1860s and renamed the summit in his honour.

Card
Coordinates45.9131° N · 7.8606° E
UIAA rank№ 67 / 82
CountriesItaly
Normal gradeF · facile
First ascent1801 · Pietro Giordani and party from Alagna
Typical seasonJuly to September
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Photo of Punta Giordani
Photo: Ximonic (Simo Räsänen) · CC BY-SA 4.0

Southernmost 4000-metre peak of the Monte Rosa massif, often climbed as a first 4000er from the Indren cable car.

History

Climbed on 5 September 1801 by Pietro Giordani, the doctor of Alagna, in what is the earliest recorded ascent of any 4000-metre summit in the Monte Rosa group — eighteen years before Vincent's celebrated Pyramid climb. Giordani went alone, prospecting on the south flank of Monte Rosa from the Indren glacier, and his account in a local Alagna newspaper went unnoticed by the European alpine community for decades. The summit was renamed in his honour by the Club Alpino Italiano in the 1860s once the historical record was reconstructed.

Location

Summit · huts that serve as bases for routes on this peak

Major routes
Indren glacier from Punta Indren / Capanna Gnifetti
Vertical / summit day770 m gain · 3h
The lowest 4000er of the Monte Rosa massif and one of the easiest in the Alps. From the top of the Punta Indren cable car (3275 m) or from the Capanna Gnifetti the route crosses the Indren glacier and follows the south-east shoulder via a short rocky step (II) to the broad summit.
Sections
Punta Indren (3275 m)Foot of summit shoulder (~3900 m)+625 m2h
Foot of shoulderSummit (4046 m)+146 m1h
Featured in tours
Spaghetti Tour4-7 daysPD+
Nearby huts
Rifugio Capanna GnifettiCAI · late June to mid-September3,647 mRifugio Città di MantovaCAI · late June to mid-September3,498 mRifugio Giovanni GnifettiCAI · mid-March to late September3,647 m