The peak · IT · Mont Blanc Alps

Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey

4,112 m

'White Needle of Peuterey' — aiguille is the standard Chamonix-French term for a granite spire ('needle'); Peuterey is the Aosta-side valley below. The 'white' distinguishes it from the lower, dark, rotten-rock Aiguille Noire de Peuterey on the same ridge.

Card
Coordinates45.8200° N · 6.8678° E
UIAA rank№ 49 / 82
CountriesItaly
Normal gradeTD · très difficile
First ascent1885 · Henry Seymour King with Émile Rey, Ambros Supersaxo and Aloys Anthamatten
Typical seasonJuly to August
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Photo of Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey
Photo: D N · Public domain

Remote three-summited peak on the Peuterey ridge above the Brenva glacier, widely regarded as the most serious of the Alpine 4000ers to reach. Normal route is the historic line from the Craveri bivouac.

History

The keystone of the Peuterey ridge — the longest ridge in the Alps to any summit (more than 4500 m of cumulative ascent from Val Veni to Mont Blanc). Climbed on 31 July 1885 by the English alpinist Henry Seymour King with three Saas and Courmayeur guides led by Émile Rey, the great Courmayeur guide of the late 19th century. The traverse of the Aiguille Blanche on the way to Mont Blanc via the integral Peuterey ridge — taking in the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey (below 4000 m and outside the UIAA list), the Aiguille Blanche, the Grand Pilier d'Angle and Mont Blanc de Courmayeur — is still considered one of the supreme ridge traverses of the Alps.

Location

Summit · huts that serve as bases for routes on this peak

Major routes
WNW ridge from Bivacchi Eccles (Normal route)
D · difficile
Vertical / summit day2,050 m gain · 6h
The standard route on this remote summit. From the Rifugio Monzino in the Val Veny a long approach climbs the Brouillard glacier to the Eccles bivouac; summit day crosses Pic Eccles to Col Eccles, traverses to the Col de Peuterey and climbs the rocky WNW ridge (sustained III, sections of IV) to the summit. Best early in the season to limit rockfall on the descent from Col Eccles.
Sections
Rifugio Monzino (2590 m)Bivacchi Eccles (3852 m)+1,262 m7h
Bivacchi EcclesSummit (4112 m)+260 m3h 30m
Featured in tours
Peuterey Integral3-4 daysTD
Nearby huts
Rifugio MonzinoCAI · mid-June to mid-September2,590 mBivacchi Eccles (Lampugnani / Crippa)CAI · unguarded (always open)3,852 mRifugio MonzinoCAI · mid-June to mid-September2,590 mBivacco Piero CraveriCAI · unstaffed (year-round access)3,490 m