The 82/Mont Blanc/Aiguilles du Diable — Corne du Diable
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The peak · FR · Mont Blanc Alps

Aiguilles du Diable — Corne du Diable

4,069 m

French for 'horn of the devil' — the northernmost of the five Aiguilles du Diable, set apart by its short, blunt, horn-like profile from the more slender needles to its south.

Card
Coordinates45.8592° N · 6.8928° E
UIAA rank№ 60 / 82
CountriesFrance
Normal gradeTD · très difficile
First ascent1925 · Armand Charlet, Antoine Ravanel & Jean Chaubert
Typical seasonJuly to August
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Photo of Aiguilles du Diable — Corne du Diable
Photo: Thomas Serra · CC BY-SA 3.0

Lowest and easternmost of the Aiguilles du Diable on Mont Blanc du Tacul's south-east ridge, climbed on the same 1925 outing as Pointe Chaubert.

History

The 'horn of the devil' — the northernmost of the five Aiguilles du Diable on the south ridge of Mont Blanc du Tacul, and the first one encountered on the classic Diable traverse from the Col du Diable. Climbed in the early 20th century during the Chamonix-guide campaigns that put up first ascents on all five needles; integrated into Armand Charlet's full traverse of 1928. The summit is reached today by a short crux pitch from the col, and the descent rappels back into the Combe Maudite.

Location

Summit · huts that serve as bases for routes on this peak

Major routes
Aiguilles du Diable traverse
D · difficileTopo ↗
Vertical / summit day1,000 m gain · 6h
Easternmost tooth on the Diable ridge — the first summit reached on the standard E→W traverse from the Tacul glacier. Short rocky climb (IV+) onto the airy spire.
Huts on this route
Nearby huts
Rifugio TorinoCAI · year-round3,375 m