The 82/Mont Blanc/Grandes Jorasses — Pointe Marguerite
61 / 82Aiguilles du Diable — Corne du DiableOber Gabelhorn
The peak · FR/IT · Mont Blanc Alps

Grandes Jorasses — Pointe Marguerite

4,066 m

Named after Marguerite Walker, daughter of Horace Walker, in the same set of family namings as Pointe Hélène.

Card
Coordinates45.8678° N · 6.9819° E
UIAA rank№ 61 / 82
CountriesFrance · Italy
Normal gradeAD · assez difficile
First ascent1898 · Luigi Amedeo di Savoia (Duke of the Abruzzi) with Joseph Petigax, Laurent Croux & César Ollier
Typical seasonJuly to August
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Photo of Grandes Jorasses — Pointe Marguerite
Photo: No machine-readable author provided. RobinL~commonswiki assumed (based on copyright claims). · CC BY 2.5

Sub-summit on the western Grandes Jorasses ridge, named after Queen Margherita of Italy; usually climbed as part of the full Jorasses traverse.

History

Named for Marguerite Walker, the daughter of Horace Walker. The Pointe is one of the lesser summits on the long east-west ridge of the Grandes Jorasses. Its first ascent as a separate summit is conventionally dated to the late 1890s, when the Sella brothers and the Maquignaz guides made systematic separate ascents of the Jorasses sub-summits during the surveying campaigns of the Club Alpino Italiano.

Location

Summit · huts that serve as bases for routes on this peak

Major routes
On the Grandes Jorasses summit-ridge traverse
AD · assez difficile
Vertical / summit day2,670 m gain · 9h
Westernmost of the five named Jorasses sub-summits. Most parties descend the Col des Hirondelles or continue across to the Col des Grandes Jorasses (Bivacco Canzio) from here. Exposed mixed terrain (II–III).
Huts on this route
Featured in tours
Rochefort–Jorasses Traverse2-3 daysD
Nearby huts
Refuge de LeschauxCAF · mid-June to mid-September2,431 mRifugio TorinoCAI · year-round3,375 mRifugio Boccalatte-PioltiCAI · mid-June to mid-September2,803 mBivacco CanzioCAI · unstaffed (year-round access)3,818 mBivacco GervasuttiCAI · unstaffed (year-round access)2,835 m