The 82/Monte Rosa/Breithorn — Eastern summit
45 / 82BishornCombin de la Tsessette
The peak · CH/IT · Monte Rosa Alps

Breithorn — Eastern summit

4,139 m

The eastern of the three Breithorn summits; the collective name means 'broad horn' in German.

Card
Coordinates45.9425° N · 7.7750° E
UIAA rank№ 45 / 82
CountriesSwitzerland · Italy
Normal gradePD · peu difficile
First ascent1869 · Attributed to the Pendlebury brothers' party in the late 1860s
Typical seasonJune to October
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Photo of Breithorn — Eastern summit
Photo: Laurent-34 · CC BY-SA 3.0

Eastern of the three main Breithorn summits, climbed as part of the classic east-to-west traverse of the Breithorn ridge.

History

The eastern of the three Breithorn summits, sometimes also called Breithorn-Ost. Reached on the Breithorn traverse east from the much more popular West summit, or directly from the Schwarztor by a short rock-and-snow climb. The full Breithorn traverse — Breithorn-West, Central, East, Roccia Nera — is one of the most enjoyable easy ridge traverses of the Pennine Alps and is the only practical way to tick the four separate UIAA summits in a single day.

Location

Summit · huts that serve as bases for routes on this peak

Major routes
Breithorn full traverse from Klein Matterhorn
D · difficile
Vertical / summit day700 m gain · 6h
Reached on the full Breithorn traverse between the Central summit and the Twins (4106 m and 4139 m). The 'Eastern' summit refers to the easternmost of the Breithorn Twins (Breithornzwillinge). Sustained mixed terrain (III), short abseils between summits.
Featured in tours
Breithorn Full Traverse1-2 daysPD+
Nearby huts
Rifugio Guide della Val d'AyasCAI · mid-March to mid-September3,420 mRifugio Guide del CervinoCAI · mid-March to mid-September3,480 mBivacco Rossi e VolanteCAI · unstaffed (year-round access)3,750 m