The peak · CH · Pennine Alps

Bishorn

4,153 m

'Twin horn' or 'ridge horn' in Walser German — most commonly read as a contraction of bi-Horn, 'next-to horn', referring to its position immediately north of the much higher Weisshorn, of which it is effectively a fore-summit.

Card
Coordinates46.1083° N · 7.7233° E
UIAA rank№ 44 / 82
CountriesSwitzerland
Normal gradeF · facile
First ascent1884 · G.S. Barnes & R. Chessyre-Walker with Joseph Imboden & J.M. Chanton
Typical seasonJuly to September
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Photo of Bishorn
Photo: 4000er · Public domain

Twin-summited snow peak immediately north of the Weisshorn, often climbed as a first 4000er via glacier from the Cabane de Tracuit above Zinal.

History

The 'forepeak' immediately north of the Weisshorn — a broad snow dome reached easily from the Tracuit hut. First climbed on 18 August 1884 by an English party with the St-Niklaus guides Imboden, more than twenty years after the Weisshorn itself. The Bishorn is the easiest 4000er in the Pennine Alps and is widely used as a high-altitude training peak; from the summit, the view of the Weisshorn north ridge — perhaps the finest snow ridge in the Alps — is the main draw.

Location

Summit · huts that serve as bases for routes on this peak

Major routes
NW flank from Cabane de Tracuit (Normal route)
F · facileTopo ↗
Vertical / summit day2,100 m gain · 4h
Often called the easiest 4000er on the north side of the Pennines. From Zinal a steep hike climbs to the Cabane de Tracuit (3256 m); summit day is a straightforward but crevassed glacier plod up the Turtmann glacier and the broad NW flank, finishing on a short summit ridge between the east and west tops. Excellent acclimatisation peak and stepping stone to the Weisshorn.
Sections
Zinal (1675 m)Cabane de Tracuit (3256 m)+1,581 m5h
Cabane de TracuitSummit (4153 m)+897 m4h
Huts on this route
Nearby huts
Cabane de TracuitSAC · mid-March to mid-September3,256 m