The peak · CH · Bernese Alps

Jungfrau

4,158 m

German for 'the maiden' or 'the virgin'. Several etymologies coexist: the standard reading is that the high pastures below the peak (the Wengernalp) were owned by the Augustinian convent at Interlaken and worked by its nuns, so the mountain became 'the nuns' mountain' and eventually 'the maiden'; a competing reading sees in the name a reference to the peak's untouched, unclimbable appearance from below.

Card
Coordinates46.5367° N · 7.9622° E
UIAA rank№ 43 / 82
CountriesSwitzerland
Normal gradePD · peu difficile
First ascent1811 · Johann Rudolf & Hieronymus Meyer with chamois hunters Alois Volker & Joseph Bortis
Typical seasonJune to October
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Photo of Jungfrau
Photo: 4000er · Public domain

One of the iconic trio of Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau dominating the northern Bernese Oberland. The summit sits on the Bern–Valais border above the Jungfraujoch railway terminus.

History

The 'Maiden' was the first major Bernese summit to be climbed: on 3 August 1811, by the Aarau merchant brothers Meyer with two Valais chamois hunters they had recruited at Lötschental, approaching not from the famous north face above Interlaken but from the south, up the Aletsch firn. The ascent caused a sensation in early-19th-century scientific circles. Today the Jungfrau is more famous for the Jungfraubahn, the rack railway opened in 1912 that bores 7 km through the Eiger and Mönch to emerge at the Jungfraujoch — the highest railway station in Europe — making the summit a comparatively short day's climb.

Location

Summit · huts that serve as bases for routes on this peak

Major routes
SE flank via Rottalsattel (Normal route)
Vertical / summit day700 m gain · 6h
From the Jungfraujoch (3454 m, reached by train) a short walk leads to the Mönchsjochhütte. Summit day descends slightly to the Jungfraufirn, crosses to the Rottalsattel, and climbs the steep, often icy SE flank (40–45°) and a corniced summit ridge.
Sections
Jungfraujoch (3454 m)Mönchsjochhütte (3658 m)+204 m1h
MönchsjochhütteRottalsattel (3885 m)+227 m3h
RottalsattelSummit (4158 m)+273 m3h
Huts on this route
Nearby huts
MönchsjochhütteSAC · mid-February to mid-October3,657 mRottalhütteSAC · late June to mid-September2,755 m