The 82/Monte Rosa/Breithorn — Central summit
42 / 82Breithorn — Western summitJungfrau
The peak · CH/IT · Monte Rosa Alps

Breithorn — Central summit

4,159 m

The central of the three Breithorn summits; the collective name means 'broad horn' in German.

Card
Coordinates45.9419° N · 7.7706° E
UIAA rank№ 42 / 82
CountriesSwitzerland · Italy
Normal gradePD · peu difficile
First ascent1869 · Often attributed to the Triftjigrat party (R. Fowler with Peter Knubel & G. Ruppen)
Typical seasonJune to October
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Photo of Breithorn — Central summit
Photo: Laurent-34 · CC BY-SA 3.0

Central summit of the Breithorn ridge between the Western Breithorn and the Eastern Breithorn, usually included in the full Breithorn traverse.

History

The central of the three Breithorn summits on the long ridge above the Theodulpass. It is a snow dome with no independent normal route; modern parties reach it by traversing east along the summit ridge from the much-climbed Breithorn-West. The first independent ascent is conventionally credited to surveyors of the Italian Carta Topografica in the 1870s. Together with the East summit and Roccia Nera it forms the 'Breithornzwillinge' (Breithorn twins) ridge, a fine high-altitude traverse from the Klein Matterhorn to the Schwarztor.

Location

Summit · huts that serve as bases for routes on this peak

Major routes
Breithorn full traverse (E→W) from Klein Matterhorn
D · difficile
Vertical / summit day800 m gain · 7h
Bagged on the full Breithorn traverse (E→W) from Roccia Nera to the West Summit — a long ridge of rock and snow with passages up to IV on the first tower. Sustained crampon-and-rope work, several short abseils, and exposed corniced snow arêtes. About 6–8 h hut-to-hut.
Detour from West Breithorn (Half traverse)
PD+
Vertical / summit day400 m gain · 3h
Half-traverse variant: climb the West Breithorn normal (F) from Klein Matterhorn, then continue east along the corniced summit ridge (PD+ with a small step of III on rock) to the Central summit, return same way.
Featured in tours
Breithorn Full Traverse1-2 daysPD+
Nearby huts
Rifugio Guide della Val d'AyasCAI · mid-March to mid-September3,420 mRifugio Guide del CervinoCAI · mid-March to mid-September3,480 mBivacco Rossi e VolanteCAI · unstaffed (year-round access)3,750 m