The peak · CH/IT · Monte Rosa Alps
Breithorn — Western summit
4,164 m
German for 'broad horn' — descriptive of the peak's exceptionally wide, gentle summit dome, in contrast to the typical sharp 'horn' shape of its neighbours.
Coordinates45.9414° N · 7.7656° E
UIAA rank№ 41 / 82
CountriesSwitzerland · Italy
Normal gradeF · facile
First ascent1813 · Henry Maynard with Jean-Marie Couttet, J. Gras, J.-B. & J.-J. Erin
Typical seasonJune to October
Often considered the easiest 4000er.
The first 4000er climbed for sport in the Pennine Alps, on 13 August 1813 by the Englishman Henry Maynard with Chamonix guides recruited at Zermatt. The west summit's south-west flank from the Klein Matterhorn is now the easiest of all 82 peaks: it can be done in under two hours from the lift station and is the standard introduction to glaciated terrain for many beginners.
Summit · huts that serve as bases for routes on this peak
F · facileTopo ↗
Vertical / summit day380 m gain · 2h 30m
The 'easiest 4000er' — a short glacier walk from the top station of the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise cable car (3820 m). The route crosses the Breithorn Plateau and finishes up a 30° snow slope to the summit. No hut required; most parties do it as a half-day from Zermatt or Cervinia.
Sections
Klein Matterhorn (3820 m)→Breithornpass (3826 m)+50 m45m
Breithornpass→Summit (4164 m)+338 m1h 45m