The 82/Mont Blanc/Dent du Géant
79 / 82Punta BarettiLagginhorn
The peak · FR/IT · Mont Blanc Alps

Dent du Géant

4,013 m

French for 'tooth of the giant' — the granite tooth of the Géant rises starkly above the Col du Géant, the high pass that has carried the same name since at least the 16th century. The 'giant' belongs to local folklore rather than any single legend.

Card
Coordinates45.8633° N · 6.9436° E
UIAA rank№ 79 / 82
CountriesFrance · Italy
Normal gradeAD · assez difficile
First ascent1882 · W.W. Graham with Alphonse Payot & Auguste Cupelin (main summit, Pointe Graham); Pointe Sella climbed days earlier by the Maquignaz brothers
Typical seasonJuly to September
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Photo of Dent du Géant
Photo: Aiace from flickr.com · CC BY 2.0

Striking rock tooth on the Rochefort ridge between the Mont Blanc massif's French and Italian sides; the normal route climbs the south-west face on fixed ropes.

History

Long considered unclimbable — Mummery famously wrote 'absolutely inaccessible by fair means' in the visitor's book at the Col du Géant after his 1880 attempt — the Géant's vertical granite tooth was finally taken on 29 July 1882 by an Italian party led by the brothers Sella, who used fixed ropes and iron pegs hammered into cracks by the Maquignaz guides over several days of preparation. The fixed ropes are still there in spirit: the modern voie normale follows the Sella party's line and is festooned with thick installed ropes that make the summit slabs accessible to competent scramblers.

Location

Summit · huts that serve as bases for routes on this peak

Major routes
SW face (Normal route, Burgener slabs)
AD · assez difficileTopo ↗
Vertical / summit day650 m gain · 4h
Iconic granite tooth above the Helbronner cable-car station, climbed in eight pitches on the Burgener slabs. From Rifugio Torino (3375 m), a 2½-h glacier approach leads to the Salle à Manger (a flat shoulder); the climb is mostly III–IV with fixed ropes on the cruxes (V+ free, IV with the rope).
Sections
Rifugio Torino (3375 m)Salle à Manger (~3960 m)+585 m2h 30m
Salle à MangerSummit (4013 m)+53 m1h 30m
Huts on this route
Nearby huts
Rifugio TorinoCAI · year-round (winter limited)3,375 mRifugio TorinoCAI · year-round3,375 m