The 82/Monte Rosa/Dufourspitze (Monte Rosa)
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The peak · CH/IT · Monte Rosa Alps

Dufourspitze (Monte Rosa)

4,634 m

Named in 1863 by the Swiss Federal Council after Guillaume-Henri Dufour (1787–1875), the engineer and general who produced the first accurate national topographic map of Switzerland (the Dufourkarte, 1845–1864). The local Walser name for the summit was previously Höchste Spitze ('highest peak'), unimaginative but unambiguous.

Card
Coordinates45.9369° N · 7.8669° E
UIAA rank№ 03 / 82
CountriesSwitzerland · Italy
Normal gradePD · peu difficile
First ascent1855 · Charles Hudson, J. Birkbeck, E. Stephenson, J. & C. Smyth with Matthäus & Johannes zum Taugwald and Ulrich Lauener
Typical seasonJuly to September
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Photo of Dufourspitze (Monte Rosa)
Photo: Ximonic (Simo Räsänen) · CC BY-SA 4.0

Highest summit of the Monte Rosa massif and of Switzerland.

History

The highest summit of the Monte Rosa massif — and of Switzerland — was reached on 1 August 1855 by an Anglo-Swiss party of eight via the west flank from Zermatt. It was named in honour of the Swiss general and cartographer Guillaume-Henri Dufour. The Reverend Charles Hudson, leader of the 1855 party, would die ten years later in the Matterhorn descent. The mountain's east face, more than 2000 metres tall above the Macugnaga glacier in Italy, was first climbed in 1872 and is the largest mountain wall in the Alps.

Location

Summit · huts that serve as bases for routes on this peak

Major routes
West ridge (Normal route from Monte Rosa hut)
Vertical / summit day1,840 m gain · 8h
The standard ascent from the Swiss side. From the Rotenboden train station the approach crosses the Gornergletscher to the Monte Rosa hut; summit day climbs the Monte Rosa glacier to the Sattel and then the airy west ridge to the Dufourspitze, with rocky scrambling (II–III) and short fixed sections near the top.
Sections
Rotenboden (2815 m)Monte Rosa hut (2883 m)+250 m2h 30m
Monte Rosa hutSattel (4359 m)+1,476 m5h
SattelDufourspitze (4634 m)+275 m3h
Huts on this route
Featured in tours
Spaghetti Tour4-7 daysPD+
Nearby huts
Neue Monte Rosa HütteSAC · late February to October2,795 mCapanna Regina MargheritaCAI · late June to mid-September4,554 m