The peak · CH/IT · Monte Rosa Alps

Nordend

4,609 m

German for 'north end' — purely descriptive: the northernmost summit of the Monte Rosa ridge.

Card
Coordinates45.9433° N · 7.8722° E
UIAA rank№ 04 / 82
CountriesSwitzerland · Italy
Normal gradePD · peu difficile
First ascent1861 · E.N. & T.F. Buxton and J.J. Cowell with guide Michel-Clément Payot
Typical seasonJuly to September
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Photo of Nordend
Photo: Konkord · CC BY-SA 3.0

Northernmost main summit of the Monte Rosa massif, just north of the Dufourspitze on the Swiss–Italian border.

History

The 'north end' — second-highest summit of the Monte Rosa massif, just over the international border from the Dufourspitze. Climbed on 26 August 1861 by an English party from the Italian side. The Nordend is more remote than its higher neighbour and is most often reached by climbers who continue across the summit ridge after the Dufourspitze; alternatively from the Margherita hut. Its north face onto the Macugnaga glacier — part of the Monte Rosa east face, the largest mountain wall in the Alps — was first climbed in 1879.

Location

Summit · huts that serve as bases for routes on this peak

Major routes
Silbersattel via Monte Rosa hut (Normal route)
Vertical / summit day1,900 m gain · 6h
The second-highest summit of the Monte Rosa massif and Switzerland's second-highest peak. From the Monte Rosa hut climb the same Monte Rosa glacier as the Dufourspitze route to the Silbersattel (4517 m); from the saddle a long, exposed snow ridge with a short rocky step (II) leads north to the summit. Often combined with the Dufourspitze in a single big day.
Sections
Rotenboden (2815 m)Monte Rosa hut (2883 m)+250 m2h 30m
Monte Rosa hutSilbersattel (4517 m)+1,634 m5h
SilbersattelSummit (4609 m)+92 m1h 30m
Huts on this route
Nearby huts
Neue Monte Rosa HütteSAC · late February to October2,795 mCapanna Regina MargheritaCAI · late June to mid-September4,554 m