The peak · FR/IT · Mont Blanc Alps
Grandes Jorasses — Pointe Whymper
4,184 m
Named after Edward Whymper (1840–1911), who first reached this summit (then thought to be the high point of the Grandes Jorasses) on 24 June 1865 — three weeks before his fateful Matterhorn ascent.
Coordinates45.8694° N · 6.9844° E
UIAA rank№ 37 / 82
CountriesFrance · Italy
Normal gradeAD · assez difficile
First ascent1865 · Edward Whymper with Christian Almer, Michel Croz & Franz Biner
Typical seasonJuly to August
Second-highest summit of the Grandes Jorasses, just west of Pointe Walker on the long summit ridge; first climbed by Whymper days before the Matterhorn tragedy.
The first summit of the Grandes Jorasses to be climbed — by Edward Whymper and his guides on 24 June 1865, three weeks before the Matterhorn — but for many years thought to be the high point. When Horace Walker proved otherwise in 1868, the previously-summited top was rechristened in Whymper's name.
Summit · huts that serve as bases for routes on this peak
AD · assez difficile
Vertical / summit day2,700 m gain · 7h 30m
Second-highest of the Jorasses summits, immediately west of Pointe Walker on the long summit ridge. Climbed by continuing the south-side normal route along the rocky/corniced summit crest from Walker (~30 min of exposed mixed scrambling, II–III). Often bagged together with Walker.
Huts on this route
- Refuge Boccalatte2,803 m
Refuge BoccalatteCAI · mid-June to mid-September2,803 mRefuge de LeschauxCAF · mid-June to mid-September2,431 mRifugio TorinoCAI · year-round3,375 mRifugio Boccalatte-PioltiCAI · mid-June to mid-September2,803 mBivacco CanzioCAI · unstaffed (year-round access)3,818 mBivacco GervasuttiCAI · unstaffed (year-round access)2,835 m