The peak · CH · Pennine Alps

Strahlhorn

4,190 m

German Strahl plus Horn — in Swiss-German mountaineering vocabulary Strahl means 'crystal' rather than literal 'ray', and Strahler is the traditional word for a crystal-hunter; the peak is named for the rock-crystals once prospected on its flanks.

Card
Coordinates46.0056° N · 7.9094° E
UIAA rank№ 36 / 82
CountriesSwitzerland
Normal gradeF · facile
First ascent1854 · Edmund, James & Christopher Smyth with Ulrich Lauener & Franz Andenmatten
Typical seasonJuly to September
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Photo of Strahlhorn
Photo: Mg-k · CC BY-SA 3.0

Glaciated dome forming the southern bastion of the Mischabel group, often combined with ski-mountaineering itineraries. The normal route climbs from the Britanniahütte across the Allalin Glacier and over the Adlerpass.

History

Climbed on 15 August 1854 by the English brothers Christopher and James Smyth — the same pair who twelve months later would lead the first ascent of the Dufourspitze on Monte Rosa. The Strahlhorn ('radiant peak') is approached from the Britanniahütte across the broad Adlerpass glacier, a long but technically easy snow walk that is one of the most popular high-altitude ski mountaineering objectives of the Saas valley.

Location

Summit · huts that serve as bases for routes on this peak

Major routes
WNW ridge via Adlerpass (Normal route)
Vertical / summit day1,400 m gain · 5h
Long but technically easy glacier route from the Britanniahütte. Cross the Hohlaub glacier and follow the Allalin glacier to the Adlerpass (3789 m); from there ~400 m of broad WNW ridge — 35–40° initially, then a gentle snow plateau — to the summit. The crevasse fields are the main hazard.
Sections
Felskinn (2989 m)Britanniahütte (3030 m)+200 m1h 15m
BritanniahütteAdlerpass (3789 m)+759 m3h
AdlerpassSummit (4190 m)+401 m2h
Huts on this route
Nearby huts
Britannia HütteSAC · mid-March to mid-September3,030 m