'Horn of the Aletsch' — named for the Great Aletsch Glacier (Aletsch-Gletscher), the largest glacier in the Alps, which descends from the foot of the peak. The Aletsch element is a pre-Romance toponym of disputed origin, possibly from Celtic *al-, 'high'.
Card
Coordinates46.4647° N · 8.0114° E
UIAA rank№ 35 / 82
CountriesSwitzerland
Normal gradePD · peu difficile
First ascent1859 · Francis Fox Tuckett with J.J. Bennen, Peter Bohren & Victor Tairraz
Second-highest peak of the Bernese Alps and the only one of the higher Bernese summits lying entirely in Valais. It rises above the Great Aletsch Glacier in the UNESCO Jungfrau-Aletsch World Heritage area.
History
Climbed on 18 June 1859 by Francis Fox Tuckett — the prolific English alpinist and member of the original Alpine Club committee — with his three guides. The Aletschhorn presides over the Great Aletsch Glacier, the largest glacier in the Alps and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2001.
Location & routes
NE ridge from Mittelaletschbiwak (Hasler rib)Hasler rib from Konkordiahütte
Route lines are approximate — drawn from guidebook waypoints, not GPS tracks. Don't navigate by them.
Major routes
NE ridge from Mittelaletschbiwak (Hasler rib)
AD-
Vertical / summit day2,400 m gain · 6h
The shortest summit-day line on the Aletschhorn. From Belalp the long approach climbs the Mittelaletsch glacier to the small unguarded Mittelaletschbiwak (3013 m); summit day climbs the Hasler rib (the NE ridge, mixed III) and the upper snow ridge to the summit. Long, committing route in a remote setting.
Most-used summer line. From Konkordiahütte the route crosses the Großer Aletschfirn to the Lötschenlücke, traverses the Mittelaletschgletscher and climbs the Hasler rib to the summit — a very long single push of ~10 h, often done with an alpine start.