The 82/Bernese/Lauteraarhorn
70 / 82Gross GrünhornAiguille du Jardin
The peak · CH · Bernese Alps

Lauteraarhorn

4,042 m

'Loud Aar horn' or 'clear Aar horn' — lauter in older Swiss-German can mean either 'loud / noisy' or 'pure / clear'; the Aar river is named here in its Lauteraar form (the upper, southern branch, paired with the Finsteraar to the north).

Card
Coordinates46.5817° N · 8.1281° E
UIAA rank№ 70 / 82
CountriesSwitzerland
Normal gradeAD · assez difficile
First ascent1842 · P.J.É. Desor, C. Girard & Arnold Escher von der Linth with Melchior Bannholzer & Jakob Leuthold
Typical seasonJuly to September
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Photo of Lauteraarhorn
Photo: Orion666 · CC BY-SA 3.0

Remote rock summit linked to the Schreckhorn by a long ridge, between the Lower Grindelwald and Unteraar glaciers. One of the most isolated 4000ers in the Alps.

History

Climbed on 8 August 1842 by a large party from the Aar-glacier scientific expedition of Louis Agassiz, the great pioneer of glaciology. Agassiz himself stayed at the Hotel des Neuchâtelois — the rough stone shelter the team had built on a moraine in the middle of the Unteraar glacier — while Desor, Girard, Dollfus-Ausset and four Oberland guides made the climb. For decades the Lauteraarhorn was confused with the higher Schreckhorn (climbed only in 1861 by Leslie Stephen), and an 1828 claim by Franz Joseph Hugi to have climbed the 'Schreckhorn' is now believed to have been an ascent of a sub-summit of the Lauteraarhorn instead.

Location

Summit · huts that serve as bases for routes on this peak

Major routes
SW ridge via Lauteraargrat from Schreckhornhütte (traverse)
Vertical / summit day3,050 m gain · 10h
The standard line — usually climbed as a Schreckhorn → Lauteraarhorn traverse. From the Schreckhornhütte climb the Schreckhorn SW ridge, traverse the Lauteraargrat (mixed climbing to IV, several gendarmes) to the Lauteraarhorn, descend either via the south face or back over the Schreckhorn. Very long and committing day.
Sections
Grindelwald / PfingsteggSchreckhornhütte (2529 m)+1,495 m5h
SchreckhornhütteSchreckhorn (4078 m)+1,549 m4h
SchreckhornLauteraarhorn (4042 m)+200 m4h
Huts on this route
Direct SW ridge from Schreckhornhütte
AD · assez difficile
Vertical / summit day1,550 m gain · 6h
Direct ascent of the Lauteraarhorn alone, climbing the SW ridge over the Schraubengang couloir and the rocky upper crest (II–III). Less committing than the full traverse.
Huts on this route
Featured in tours
Schreckhorn–Lauteraarhorn Traverse2-3 daysD
Nearby huts
FinsteraarhornhütteSAC · late June to early October3,048 mSchreckhornhütteSAC · mid-June to mid-September2,529 mAarbiwakSAC · unstaffed (year-round access)2,731 m