The 82/Mont Blanc/Picco Luigi Amedeo
13 / 82Matterhorn / CervinMont Maudit
The peak · IT · Mont Blanc Alps

Picco Luigi Amedeo

4,470 m

Italian, named after Prince Luigi Amedeo of Savoy, Duke of the Abruzzi (1873–1933) — the explorer-prince who climbed Mount Saint Elias, set the K2 altitude record in 1909, and led the 1899 Italian polar expedition.

Card
Coordinates45.8267° N · 6.8536° E
UIAA rank№ 13 / 82
CountriesItaly
Normal gradeTD · très difficile
First ascent1901 · G.B. & G.F. Gugliermina with Joseph Brocherel
Typical seasonJuly to August
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Photo of Picco Luigi Amedeo
Photo: Hseugut · CC BY-SA 4.0

Italian satellite peak on the Brouillard ridge to Mont Blanc, reached only by ascending that ridge. Named after Prince Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi.

History

Named after Luigi Amedeo of Savoy, Duke of the Abruzzi (1873–1933) — the Italian prince who climbed Mount Saint Elias in Alaska in 1897, set an altitude record on K2 in 1909 with Vittorio Sella, and led the most ambitious Italian expeditions of the late colonial era. The peak is a granite shoulder on the Brouillard ridge above Val Veni and was first climbed in 1901 by the Italian party of Karl Blodig with the guides Laurent Croux and Alexis Brocherel, on a campaign of Brouillard-side ascents. Blodig, an Austrian dentist, would in 1911 become the first person to climb every then-recognised 4000-metre peak of the Alps.

Location

Summit · huts that serve as bases for routes on this peak

Major routes
Brouillard ridge from Bivacchi Eccles
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Vertical / summit day600 m gain · 4h
Only reachable via the Brouillard ridge — a wild, remote shoulder on the way from the Col Emile Rey to Mont Blanc de Courmayeur. From the Eccles bivouac the route follows the rocky ridge over Mont Brouillard, descends to the Col Emile Rey and climbs a tricky vertical gully and easier rock to Picco Luigi Amedeo. The crest then continues to Mont Blanc de Courmayeur and Mont Blanc.
Sections
Rifugio Monzino (2590 m)Bivacchi Eccles (3852 m)+1,262 m7h
Bivacchi EcclesPicco Luigi Amedeo (4470 m)+618 m4h
Nearby huts
Rifugio MonzinoCAI · mid-June to mid-September2,590 mBivacchi Eccles (Lampugnani / Crippa)CAI · unguarded (always open)3,852 mRifugio MonzinoCAI · mid-June to mid-September2,590 m