The 82/Mont Blanc/Mont Maudit
14 / 82Picco Luigi AmedeoParrotspitze
The peak · FR/IT · Mont Blanc Alps

Mont Maudit

4,465 m

French for 'cursed mountain' — the name inherited from the medieval-era catch-all term for the whole upper Mont Blanc range (la Montagne Maudite), which was attached to this neighbouring summit once Mont Blanc proper had been baptised in white.

Card
Coordinates45.8466° N · 6.8765° E
UIAA rank№ 14 / 82
CountriesFrance · Italy
Normal gradePD · peu difficile
First ascent1878 · H. Seymour Hoare & W.E. Davidson with Johann Jaun and Johann von Bergen
Typical seasonJuly to September
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Photo of Mont Maudit
Photo: The original uploader was Eltouristo at French Wikipedia. · CC BY-SA 3.0

Third of the Three Monts on the Chamonix-side traverse of Mont Blanc. Crossed via the Col du Mont Maudit on the popular Trois Monts route from the Cosmiques hut.

History

The 'cursed mountain' — the second of the Trois Monts on the classic Aiguille du Midi → Mont Blanc traverse. Climbed on 12 September 1878 by an English party with the Grindelwald guide Johann Jaun. The crux of the modern route is not the summit itself but the steep snow slope below it (the Mur de la Côte and, on the Trois Monts variant, the rappel into the Col du Mont Maudit) which has produced repeated avalanche accidents — most notoriously in July 2012, when a serac collapse triggered a slide that killed nine climbers and was the deadliest single accident in the Mont Blanc range of the modern era.

Location

Summit · huts that serve as bases for routes on this peak

Major routes
NW flank from Refuge des Cosmiques (Normal route)
PD · peu difficileTopo ↗
Vertical / summit day1,050 m gain · 6h
Climbed almost exclusively as part of the Trois Monts route on Mont Blanc, but Mont Maudit can also be climbed as a stand-alone objective. From the Cosmiques hut the route crosses Mont Blanc du Tacul, descends to Col Maudit and climbs the NW flank to the summit ridge — 40–50° snow with a bergschrund step. Serac hazard from the upper Tacul face.
Sections
Refuge des Cosmiques (3613 m)Mont Blanc du Tacul shoulder (4080 m)+467 m3h
Tacul shoulderCol Maudit (4035 m)45 m45m
Col MauditSummit (4465 m)+430 m2h 30m
Huts on this route
Kuffner ridge / Arête de la Brenva (SE ridge)
D-
Vertical / summit day1,450 m gain · 10h
Classic Mont Blanc ridge climbed mostly from the Italian side. From Torino hut a long traverse to the Fourche bivouac; summit day climbs the airy frontier ridge over mixed terrain (III/III+) and snow arêtes. One of the great alpine ridges, less popular than the Brenva spurs but very aesthetic.
Huts on this route
Featured in tours
Mont Blanc Trois Monts1-2 daysPD+
Nearby huts
Refuge des CosmiquesCAF · year-round3,613 mRifugio TorinoCAI · year-round3,375 m