The peak · CH/IT · Monte Rosa Alps
Pollux
4,092 m
Named after Pollux, the second of the Dioscuri twins of Greek mythology. The pairing of Castor and Pollux for the two summits dates from the mid-19th century.
Coordinates45.9283° N · 7.7942° E
UIAA rank№ 55 / 82
CountriesSwitzerland · Italy
Normal gradePD · peu difficile
First ascent1864 · Jules Jacot with Josef-Marie Perren & Peter Taugwalder
Typical seasonJune to October
Lower of the Zwillinge pair, with a short rocky scramble crux on the normal route from the Rossi e Volante bivouac.
First climbed in 1864 by the Swiss alpinist Jules Jacot with the two Maquignaz guides from Valtournenche — three years after its twin Castor, despite being lower and standing only a short distance away across the Schwarztor.
Summit · huts that serve as bases for routes on this peak
PD+Topo ↗
Vertical / summit day700 m gain · 3h
The standard route. From the Rifugio Guide d'Ayas (3420 m) the route crosses the Grande Ghiacciaio di Verra to the foot of the SW ridge and climbs short rocky pitches (III) interspersed with snow to the airy summit. Often combined with Castor from Quintino Sella to make a Twins traverse in a single day.
Sections
Rifugio Guide d'Ayas (3420 m)→Foot of SW ridge (~3700 m)+280 m1h
Foot of SW ridge→Summit (4092 m)+392 m2h
Huts on this route
PD · peu difficile
Vertical / summit day700 m gain · 3h
Easier in good snow conditions but exposed to serac fall. 45° snow to the Zwillingsjoch and the upper west flank to the summit. The 'safe' option only when the rock ridge is iced; otherwise the SW ridge is preferred.
Huts on this route
Rifugio Guide della Val d'AyasCAI · late June to mid-September3,420 mRifugio Guide della Val d'AyasCAI · mid-March to mid-September3,420 mRifugio Guide del CervinoCAI · mid-March to mid-September3,480 mRifugio Ottorino MezzalamaCAI · mid-March to mid-September3,036 mBivacco Rossi e VolanteCAI · unstaffed (year-round access)3,750 m