Pollux

4,092 m

Named after Pollux, the second of the Dioscuri twins of Greek mythology. The pairing of Castor and Pollux for the two summits dates from the mid-19th century.

Card

Coordinates45.9283° N · 7.7942° E

UIAA rank№ 55 / 82

CountriesSwitzerland · Italy

Normal gradePD · peu difficile

First ascent

1864 · Jules Jacot with Josef-Marie Perren & Peter Taugwalder

Typical seasonJune to October

Photo of Pollux — Photo: Alagna · Public domain

Lower of the Zwillinge pair, with a short rocky scramble crux on the normal route from the Rossi e Volante bivouac.

History

First climbed in 1864 by the Swiss alpinist Jules Jacot with the two Maquignaz guides from Valtournenche — three years after its twin Castor, despite being lower and standing only a short distance away across the Schwarztor.

Location & routes

Major routes

SW ridge from Rifugio Guide d'Ayas (Normal route)

PD+Topo ↗

Vertical / summit day700 m gain · 3h

The standard route. From the Rifugio Guide d'Ayas (3420 m) the route crosses the Grande Ghiacciaio di Verra to the foot of the SW ridge and climbs short rocky pitches (III) interspersed with snow to the airy summit. Often combined with Castor from Quintino Sella to make a Twins traverse in a single day.

Sections

Rifugio Guide d'Ayas (3420 m)→Foot of SW ridge (~3700 m)+280 m1h

Foot of SW ridge→Summit (4092 m)+392 m2h

Huts on this route

Rifugio Guide della Val d'Ayas

Nearby huts

Rifugio Guide della Val d'AyasCAI · late June to mid-September3,420 m Rifugio Guide della Val d'AyasCAI · mid-March to mid-September3,420 m Rifugio Guide del CervinoCAI · mid-March to mid-September3,480 m Rifugio Ottorino MezzalamaCAI · mid-March to mid-September3,036 m Bivacco Rossi e VolanteCAI · unstaffed (year-round access)3,750 m

← Aiguilles du Diable — Pointe Médiane · 4,097 m · № 54

55 / 82

Schreckhorn · 4,078 m · № 56 →

SW ridge from Rifugio Guide d'Ayas (Normal route)West flank (snow alternative)

Route lines are approximate — drawn from guidebook waypoints, not GPS tracks. Don't navigate by them.

3,420 m

Editor's note

Figures approximated from SAC and CAI guidebooks. Short fixed-rope sections on the harder rock steps.

West flank (snow alternative)

PD · peu difficile

Vertical / summit day700 m gain · 3h

Easier in good snow conditions but exposed to serac fall. 45° snow to the Zwillingsjoch and the upper west flank to the summit. The 'safe' option only when the rock ridge is iced; otherwise the SW ridge is preferred.

Huts on this route

Rifugio Guide della Val d'Ayas3,420 m

Editor's note

Figures approximated.