The peak · CH · Bernese Alps

Schreckhorn

4,078 m

German for 'peak of terror' — the only major Alpine summit whose name is overtly fearful. Schreck means 'fright' or 'terror', and Horn is the standard term for a sharp peak; the name is recorded as early as the 17th century, applied originally to all the high peaks visible from Grindelwald.

Card
Coordinates46.5889° N · 8.1167° E
UIAA rank№ 56 / 82
CountriesSwitzerland
Normal gradeAD · assez difficile
First ascent1861 · Leslie Stephen with Ulrich Kaufmann, Christian Michel & Peter Michel
Typical seasonJuly to September
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Photo of Schreckhorn
Photo: Kevin Hadley · CC BY-SA 3.0

Northernmost 4000-metre peak in the Alps and the highest summit lying wholly in canton Bern. A steep, predominantly rock mountain reached from the Schreckhorn Hut above Grindelwald.

History

The 'Peak of Terror' was climbed on 16 August 1861 by Leslie Stephen — Cambridge don, editor of the Cornhill Magazine, future father of Virginia Woolf, and one of the founding presidents of the Alpine Club. Stephen's essay on the climb in 'The Playground of Europe' is one of the most celebrated pieces of 19th-century mountaineering literature. The Schreckhorn was the last of the great Bernese peaks to fall, and its compact granite south-west ridge is still considered one of the finest 4000-metre rock climbs at its grade.

Location

Summit · huts that serve as bases for routes on this peak

Major routes
SW ridge (Normal route from Schreckhornhütte)
Vertical / summit day3,050 m gain · 6h
Generally considered the hardest 'normal route' on any 4000er in the Bernese Oberland. From Grindelwald a long traverse (5–6 h from Pfingstegg) climbs to the Schreckhornhütte. Summit day crosses the Schreckfirn and tackles the SW ridge — sustained rock climbing up to III+ on solid granite, exposed throughout, with several gendarmes. One of the most beautiful normal routes in the Alps.
Sections
Grindelwald (1034 m) / PfingsteggSchreckhornhütte (2529 m)+1,495 m5h
SchreckhornhütteSummit (4078 m)+1,549 m4h
Huts on this route
Featured in tours
Schreckhorn–Lauteraarhorn Traverse2-3 daysD
Nearby huts
FinsteraarhornhütteSAC · late June to early October3,048 mSchreckhornhütteSAC · mid-June to mid-September2,529 m