The 82/Monte Rosa/Roccia Nera (Breithornzwillinge)
57 / 82SchreckhornAiguilles du Diable — Pointe Chaubert
The peak · CH/IT · Monte Rosa Alps

Roccia Nera (Breithornzwillinge)

4,075 m

Italian for 'black rock' — descriptive of the dark gneiss exposed at the summit, in contrast to the lighter rock of the Breithorn ridge to the west. Forms the eastern end of the Breithornzwillinge ('Breithorn twins').

Card
Coordinates45.9436° N · 7.7822° E
UIAA rank№ 57 / 82
CountriesSwitzerland · Italy
Normal gradePD · peu difficile
First ascent1873 · Attributed to W.M. & R. Pendlebury with Rev. C. Taylor and Ferdinand Imseng
Typical seasonJune to October
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Photo of Roccia Nera (Breithornzwillinge)
Photo: Laurent-34 · CC BY-SA 3.0

Easternmost 4000-metre summit of the Breithorn-Zwillinge ridge (German: Schwarzfluh), forming the end of the classic Breithorn traverse.

History

The 'black rock' — easternmost summit of the Breithornzwillinge group, marking the eastern end of the long Breithorn ridge above the Schwarztor. First climbed in the 1870s as the surveyors of the Italian Carta Topografica completed their work on the international border crest. The summit gives the most exposed climbing of the Breithorn traverse, with short rock pitches over compact black gneiss that give the peak its name.

Location

Summit · huts that serve as bases for routes on this peak

Major routes
From Klein Matterhorn (east end of Breithorn traverse)
PD+
Vertical / summit day350 m gain · 2h
Easternmost summit of the Breithorn group, the start of the full Breithorn E→W traverse. From the Klein Matterhorn cable car (3820 m), descend slightly to the Schwärzejoch (3879 m) and climb the SW flank — 40° snow with a short rocky step (II) — to the summit. Often climbed on its own in ~2 h up.
Sections
Klein Matterhorn (3820 m)Schwärzejoch (3879 m)+80 m1h
SchwärzejochSummit (4075 m)+196 m1h
Featured in tours
Breithorn Full Traverse1-2 daysPD+
Nearby huts
Rifugio Guide della Val d'AyasCAI · mid-March to mid-September3,420 mRifugio Guide del CervinoCAI · mid-March to mid-September3,480 mBivacco Rossi e VolanteCAI · unstaffed (year-round access)3,750 m