The peak · CH · Pennine Alps

Weisshorn

4,506 m

German for 'white horn' — descriptive of the peak's permanently snow-covered upper slopes, which look strikingly white from the Rhône valley far below.

Card
Coordinates46.1006° N · 7.7150° E
UIAA rank№ 09 / 82
CountriesSwitzerland
Normal gradeAD · assez difficile
First ascent1861 · John Tyndall with J.J. Bennen & Ulrich Wenger
Typical seasonJuly to August
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Photo of Weisshorn
Photo: Zacharie Grossen · CC BY-SA 4.0

A three-faced pyramid widely regarded as one of the most beautiful peaks of the Alps. Normal route follows the east ridge from the Weisshorn Hut above Randa.

History

John Tyndall — the same Irish physicist who would shortly turn back on the Matterhorn — climbed the Weisshorn on 19 August 1861 by the long east ridge from the Bies glacier, an exhausting day of more than 3000 metres of ascent that Tyndall later described as the hardest physical effort of his life. The Weisshorn is widely regarded by alpinists as the most beautiful peak in the Alps; Whymper, who never climbed it, said that he would rather have stood on its summit than on Mont Blanc.

Location

Summit · huts that serve as bases for routes on this peak

Major routes
East ridge (Normal route from Weisshornhütte)
AD · assez difficileTopo ↗
Vertical / summit day3,000 m gain · 7h
A long, classic line from Randa. The approach climbs ~1500 m to the small Weisshornhütte; summit day is a sustained mixed climb up the Schaligrat and east ridge — rock pitches up to III, the airy 'Grand Gendarme' (turn on the right), a 45° firn cap and a short rocky finish. One of the most aesthetic 4000er normal routes and famously demanding.
Sections
Randa (1407 m)Weisshornhütte (2932 m)+1,525 m4h
WeisshornhütteSummit (4506 m)+1,574 m7h
SummitWeisshornhütte (descent)1,574 m5h
Huts on this route
Nearby huts
WeisshornhütteSAC · mid-June to mid-September2,932 mCabane de TracuitSAC · mid-March to mid-September3,256 m