The 82/Pennine/Täschhorn
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The peak · CH · Pennine Alps

Täschhorn

4,491 m

'Horn of Täsch' — named after the village of Täsch at the foot of the Mischabel chain's western flank. Täsch itself derives from a pre-Germanic toponym, possibly Celtic, of uncertain meaning.

Card
Coordinates46.0789° N · 7.8483° E
UIAA rank№ 10 / 82
CountriesSwitzerland
Normal gradeAD · assez difficile
First ascent1862 · J. Llewelyn Davies & J.W. Hayward with Stephan & Johann Zumtaugwald and Peter-Josef Summermatter
Typical seasonJuly to August
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Photo of Täschhorn
Photo: 4000er · Public domain

Second-highest peak of the Mischabel range, immediately south of the Dom and connected to it via the Domjoch. Usually climbed via the Mischabeljoch traverse from the Täschhütte or as a Dom–Täschhorn traverse.

History

Climbed on 30 July 1862 by John Llewelyn Davies — who four years earlier had taken the neighbouring Dom — with Johann Zumtaugwald and Stephan and Johann Kronig. The Täschhorn's south face, climbed in 1906 by V. J. E. Ryan with the brothers Lochmatter and Geoffrey Winthrop Young with Josef Knubel, is one of the most serious 4000-metre rock faces in the Alps and was for decades considered the limit of what a guided party could do.

Location

Summit · huts that serve as bases for routes on this peak

Major routes
Kin face from Domhütte (most-used line)
Vertical / summit day1,550 m gain · 8h
When in condition, the easiest way to the summit — but still serious. From the Domhütte the route follows the Kinfelsen ridge (via ferrata since 2010), climbs the upper Kingletscher and finishes on a steep, complex glacier face with a sharp summit ridge. Remote and committing; the Täschhorn is widely considered one of the ten hardest 4000ers in the Alps.
Sections
Randa (1407 m)→Domhütte (2940 m)+1,533 m4h
Domhütte→Summit (4491 m)+1,551 m8h
Huts on this route
Mischabelgrat (SSE ridge from Mischabeljochbiwak)
AD+
Vertical / summit day700 m gain · 6h
Long, exposed and often corniced ridge from the Mischabeljochbiwak (3851 m). Mixed III with sections of poor rock; aesthetic but committing. Frequently combined into an Alphubel→Täschhorn→Dom traverse (multi-day expedition).
Featured in tours
Dom–Täschhorn Traverse2 daysD
Nearby huts
DomhütteSAC · mid-March to mid-September2,940 mMischabeljochbiwakSAC · unstaffed (year-round access)3,855 m
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