Alphubel–Täschhorn Traverse

also: Alphubel–Täschhorn linkup

Classic Mischabel linkup that uses the gentle Alphubel as an acclimatisation precursor to the far more serious Täschhorn. From the Täschhütte, climb the Alphubel by the SE ridge (Eisnase, PD) or the elegant Rotgrat (AD), then drop down its north ridge (AD-, ~350 m, 1–1½ h) to the Mischabeljochbiwak — the unstaffed 24-place SAC bivouac perched at 3,851 m on the col between the two peaks, the second-highest SAC facility in the Alps. The next morning the Mischabelgrat (SSE ridge, AD+, brittle rock to III, often heavily corniced) leads in 4–5 hours to the Täschhorn, one of the hardest 4000ers by any route. Most parties descend the same ridge to the joch (3½–4 h) and continue down the Weingarten glacier to Täschalp; very strong parties instead carry on north over the ridge to the Dom (D) for the complete Mischabel traverse. Needs a stable multi-day weather window — the bivouac is a serious place to sit out a storm.

1. Stop 01

   2,701 m

   Täschhütte

   Walk in from Täsch (1,450 m, ~3 h) or take the Täschalp road to shorten the approach.

2. Stop 02

   3,855 m

   Mischabeljochbiwak

   • Alphubel4,206 m

   Summit the Alphubel via the SE ridge / Eisnase (PD) or the Rotgrat (AD), then descend the north ridge to the bivouac on the Mischabeljoch. Unstaffed — carry food and fuel, and check the reservation system at mischabeljochbiwak.ch.

3. Stop 03

   Valley / cable car

   • Täschhorn4,491 m

   Mischabelgrat to the Täschhorn (AD+, 4–5 h): an exposed, frequently corniced crest with brittle rock steps to III. Return the same way to the joch, then descend the Weingarten glacier to Täschalp — or continue to the Dom for the full traverse (D).