The 82/Pennine/Zinalrothorn
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The peak · CH · Pennine Alps

Zinalrothorn

4,221 m

'Red horn of Zinal' — rot is Swiss-German for 'red' (referring to the reddish gneiss of the upper rocks), and Zinal is the village in the Val d'Anniviers from which the peak is most prominent.

Card
Coordinates46.0644° N · 7.6906° E
UIAA rank№ 29 / 82
CountriesSwitzerland
Normal gradeAD · assez difficile
First ascent1864 · Leslie Stephen & F.C. Grove with Jakob & Melchior Anderegg
Typical seasonJuly to September
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Photo of Zinalrothorn
Photo: Christian David · CC BY-SA 4.0

Sharp rock summit between the Ober Gabelhorn and Weisshorn. Classic mixed alpine climb; standard route is the south-east (Rothorngrat) ridge from the Rothorn Hut.

History

Climbed on 22 August 1864 by Leslie Stephen — Cambridge don and one of the founding presidents of the Alpine Club — with the Grindelwald guides Melchior and Jakob Anderegg, by the long south ridge. The peak is granite rather than the gneiss of its neighbours, and its upper ridge is split by a series of celebrated gendarmes (notably the Bosse, a smooth granite hump that gives the crux of the modern voie normale). Stephen's account in 'The Playground of Europe' is one of the classic 19th-century alpine essays.

Location

Summit · huts that serve as bases for routes on this peak

Major routes
SE ridge (Normal route from Rothornhütte)
AD · assez difficileTopo ↗
Vertical / summit day1,620 m gain · 5h
The classic rock ridge of the Zermatt 4000ers. From the Rothornhütte the route crosses the Trift glacier, climbs the SE ridge over the Biner slab (a polished III crux) and traverses the exposed Kanzel foresummit on excellent gneiss to the airy summit. Mostly III with one short III+ pitch.
Sections
Zermatt (1605 m)Rothornhütte (3198 m)+1,593 m5h
RothornhütteSummit (4221 m)+1,023 m5h
Huts on this route
Nearby huts
RothornhütteSAC · late June to mid-September3,198 mCabane du MountetSAC · mid-June to mid-September2,886 m