The 82/Pennine/Dent Blanche
16 / 82ParrotspitzeLudwigshöhe
The peak · CH · Pennine Alps

Dent Blanche

4,357 m

French for 'white tooth' — descriptive of its sharp, often snow-covered summit pyramid above Evolène. The neighbouring Dent Noire ('black tooth') stands on the same ridge.

Card
Coordinates46.0344° N · 7.6111° E
UIAA rank№ 16 / 82
CountriesSwitzerland
Normal gradeAD · assez difficile
First ascent1862 · T.S. Kennedy & W. Wigram with Jean-Baptiste Croz & Johann Kronig
Typical seasonJuly to August
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Photo of Dent Blanche
Photo: Carsten Steger · CC BY-SA 4.0

Striking four-ridged pyramid in the Val d'Hérens, considered one of the more serious 4000ers. Normal route is the south (Wandfluegrat) ridge from the Cabane de la Dent Blanche.

History

Climbed on 18 July 1862 by the south ridge — the Wandfluegrat — which remains the voie normale. The Dent Blanche is famously remote and committing for a 'normal' route; the Quatre Ânes ('Four Donkeys') tower on the upper ridge gave generations of climbers their first taste of serious exposed gendarme-climbing. Its great south face was the scene of the 1882 death of W. E. Gabbett and the guides Jean and Aloys Pollinger, an accident that prompted the Swiss Alpine Club to begin recording and studying mountain fatalities systematically.

Location

Summit · huts that serve as bases for routes on this peak

Major routes
South ridge / Wandfluegrat (Normal route)
AD · assez difficileTopo ↗
Vertical / summit day2,400 m gain · 5h
The classic and most-climbed line on the Dent Blanche. From Ferpècle a steep 1600 m approach leads to the Cabane de la Dent Blanche (Rossier hut) at 3507 m. Summit day climbs the rocky south ridge — sustained scrambling and short pitches up to IV (4b) on excellent gneiss, with three or four steep towers protected by fixed ropes.
Sections
Ferpècle (1770 m)Cabane de la Dent Blanche (3507 m)+1,737 m6h
Cabane de la Dent BlancheSummit (4357 m)+850 m5h
Huts on this route
Nearby huts
Cabane de BertolSAC · late June to mid-October3,311 mCabane du MountetSAC · mid-June to mid-September2,886 mCabane de la Dent Blanche (Rossier)SAC · mid-July to mid-September3,507 mCabane de la Dent Blanche (Rossier)SAC · late June to mid-September3,507 m