The peak · CH · Pennine Alps
Dürrenhorn
4,035 m
German for 'dry horn' — descriptive of its bare, ice-free lower flanks, in contrast to the heavily glaciated neighbouring Mischabel summits.
Coordinates46.1144° N · 7.8606° E
UIAA rank№ 72 / 82
CountriesSwitzerland
Normal gradePD · peu difficile
First ascent1879 · Albert F. Mummery & William Penhall with Alexander Burgener & Ferdinand Imseng
Typical seasonJuly to September
Northernmost 4000er of the Nadelgrat. Most often climbed from the Bordierhütte as part of the Nadelgrat traverse.
The northernmost summit of the Nadelgrat, climbed on 7 September 1879 by A. F. Mummery with two of the strongest guides of the era. Mummery would go on to become the great innovator of guideless and 'sporting' alpinism in the 1880s and 1890s — first ascents of the Grépon, the Charmoz, the Aiguille du Plan and others — before being killed on Nanga Parbat in 1895 in the first major attempt on an 8000-metre peak.
Summit · huts that serve as bases for routes on this peak
PD+Topo ↗
Vertical / summit day1,600 m gain · 6h
First summit on the Nadelgrat from the Bordierhütte side. Climbed via Galenjoch and the SW ridge — short steep snow couloir to the Dirrujoch, then a rocky scramble (II) to the summit. Can be done as a stand-alone peak in a long day from the hut, or as the first of four on the full traverse.
Sections
Gasenried (1659 m)→Bordierhütte (2886 m)+1,227 m4h
Bordierhütte→Summit (4035 m)+1,149 m4h
Huts on this route
- Bordierhütte2,886 m